The Unknown History of African Braids

We rock braids as a protective style or when we are being creative with our hair, but throughout African history, braids have served several purposes.

Braids have been used to determine fertility, marital status, tribal status, social status, and was used during slavery to help slaves escape. Braids are a huge part of African history.

I personally have been intrigued with African hair history since embracing my own Afro textured hair. It’s interesting to learn how important hair once was and how we today are returning to this belief with the Natural Hair Movement. We have had a long history of textured hair being seen as inferior, discriminated against, degraded, and undervalued. I’m also so happy and proud some African hairstyles and traditions were not lost.

I also became curious in African hair history when I learned I was 36% West African. This is my ancestorial history, so let me share with you what I have learned about my top two favorite braided hairstyles as it relates to West Africa history and our American history.

Fulani Braids

Fulani braids originate from the Fula or Fulani tribe in West Africa. It is a hairstyle that is distinguished by having a cornrow or “coiffure” (meaning an elaborate style) down the center of the head and braids also braided in the opposite direction towards your face near the temples.

The Fula tribe decorate them with beads and cowrie shells. They also attach their families silver coins and amber to symbolize their heritage.

This hairstyle was popularly worn by Alicia Keys in the 2000s and became popular again after the release of Beyonce’s Lemonade Album. In 2018, Kim K wore Fulani Braids and received backlash when she wrongfully credited them to Bo Derek.

It is important that we pay homage and correctly credit the Fula tribe and their history for this hairstyle.

Cornrows

The Cornrow hairstyle is an African hairstyle that signifies a person’s age, marital status, wealth, kinship or religion. It is a hairstyle that is distinguished by its tight, neat style that is kept close to the scalp and can be worn alone or with elaborate adornment. This hairstyle dates as far back as 3000 B.C and can be tied to West Africa.

The term Cornrow actually derived from its visual similarity to cornfields. In the Carribean, this style was also called canerows.

This style was worn during slavery and was used as a communication code when slaves wanted to escape. The style could symbolize meeting times or escape routes.

In the 1960s, cornrows alongside Afros became popular. It was the first time since slavery, blacks started to embrace their hair and take a stand against society beauty standards. It’s been termed the “Natural Hair Movement”. It was a movement that encouraged men and women of African descent to embrace and celebrate their textured hair. It allowed people to connect with their roots, be their authentic self, and was an outward expression showing they would not allow people to shame them for their natural beauty.

Not only does Cornrows have a rich history, but they serve a great purpose for textured hair. Since retaining moisture is our main concern, Cornrows are a great protective style, that help with moisture loss and breakage. This style is also great because it is long wearing and can be worn for weeks.

Conclusion

Although today we wear many braided hairstyles it is important that we know and understand its history, not only to pay homage but to also correctly credit its origins.

I believe knowing natural hair history and knowing your own history gives you so much power when you wear these hairstyles. It gives you the ability to connect with your ancestors that once celebrated this beautiful textured hair and represent for those that couldn’t during and after slavery.

Wear your Fulani braids, Cornrows, and natural hair with pride.

Continue the legacy!

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